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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1320

Postfire hydrologic response along the central California (USA) coast: Insights for the emergency assessment of postfire debris-flow hazards

The steep, tectonically active terrain along the Central California (USA) coast is well known to produce deadly and destructive debris flows. However, the extent to which fire affects debris-flow susceptibility in this region is an open question. We documented the occurrence of postfire debris floods and flows following the landfall of a storm that delivered intense rainfall across multiple burn a
Authors
Matthew A. Thomas, Jason W. Kean, Scott W. McCoy, Donald N. Lindsay, Jaime Kostelnik, David B. Cavagnaro, Francis K. Rengers, Amy E. East, Jonathan Schwartz, Douglas P. Smith, Brian D. Collins

Efficient modeling of wave generation and propagation in a semi-enclosed estuary

Accurate, and high-resolution wave statistics are critical for regional hazard mapping and planning. However, long-term simulations at high spatial resolution are often computationally prohibitive. Here, multiple rapid frameworks including fetch-limited, look-up-table (LUT), and linear propagation are combined and tested in a large estuary exposed to both remotely (swell) and locally generated wav
Authors
Sean C. Crosby, Cornelis M. Nederhoff, Nathan R. VanArendonk, Eric E. Grossman

A large sediment accretion wave along a northern California littoral cell

The northern California littoral cell of the Klamath River, which is a mixed rocky and sandy system with significant shoreline curvature, was investigated by examining ∼40 yr of satellite-derived shoreline positions and historical records. We find that an accretion wave of sediment was initiated near the Klamath River mouth in the late 1980s and translated downcoast over the subsequent decades. Th
Authors
Jonathan Warrick, Kilian Vos, Daniel Buscombe, Andrew C. Ritchie, Jennifer Curtis

The influence of vegetated marshes on wave transformation in sheltered estuaries

Assessing the influence of marshes on mitigating flooding along estuarine shorelines under the pressures of sea level rise requires understanding wave transformation across the marsh. A numerical model was applied to investigate how vegetated marshes influence wave transformation. XBeach non-hydrostatic (XB-NH) was calibrated and validated with high frequency pressure data from the marsh at China
Authors
Rae M. Taylor-Burns, Cornelis M. Nederhoff, Jessica R. Lacy, Patrick L. Barnard

Witnessing history: Comparison of a century of sedimentary and written records in a California protected area

We use a combination of proxy records from a high-resolution analysis of sediments from Searsville Lake and adjacent Upper Lake Marsh and historical records to document over one and a half centuries of vegetation and socio-ecological change—relating to logging, agricultural land use change, dam construction, chemical applications, recreation, and other drivers—on the San Francisco Peninsula. A rel
Authors
R. Scott Anderson, M. Allison Stegner, SeanPaul La Selle, Brian L. Sherrod, Anthony D. Barnosky, Elizabeth A. Hadly

Combining field observations and high-resolution numerical modeling to demonstrate the effect of coral reef roughness on turbulence and its implications for reef restoration design

Coral reefs are effective natural barriers that protect adjacent coastal communities from hazards such as erosion and storm-induced flooding. However, the degradation of coral reefs compromises their ability to protect against these hazards, making degraded reefs a target for restoration. There have been limited field and numerical modeling studies conducted to understand how an increase in coral
Authors
Benjamin K Norris, Curt Storlazzi, Andrew W. M. Pomeroy, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Joshua B. Logan, Olivia Cheriton

HyWaves: Hybrid downscaling of multimodal wave spectra to nearshore areas

Long-term and accurate wave hindcast databases are often required in different coastal engineering projects. The assessment of the nearshore wave climate is often accomplished by using downscaling techniques to translate offshore waves to coastal areas. However, dynamical downscaling approaches may incur huge computational cost. Additionally, the common use of bulk parameterizations are often not
Authors
Alba Ricondo, Laura Cagigal, Ana Rueda, Ron Hoeke, Curt Storlazzi, Fernando Menendez

Advances in morphodynamic modeling of coastal barriers: A review

As scientific understanding of barrier morphodynamics has improved, so has the ability to reproduce observed phenomena and predict future barrier states using mathematical models. To use existing models effectively and improve them, it is important to understand the current state of morphodynamic modeling and the progress that has been made in the field. This manuscript offers a review of the lite
Authors
Steven Hoagland, Catherine Jeffries, Jennifer Irish, Robert Weiss, Kyle Mandli, Sean Vitousek, Catherine Johnson, Mary Cialone

A model integrating satellite-derived shoreline observations for predicting fine-scale shoreline response to waves and sea-level rise across large coastal regions

Satellite-derived shoreline observations combined with dynamic shoreline models enable fine-scale predictions of coastal change across large spatiotemporal scales. Here, we present a satellite-data-assimilated, “littoral-cell”-based, ensemble Kalman-filter shoreline model to predict coastal change and uncertainty due to waves, sea-level rise (SLR), and other natural and anthropogenic processes. We
Authors
Sean Vitousek, Kilian Vos, Kristen D. Splinter, Li H. Erikson, Patrick L. Barnard

Coral restoration for coastal resilience: Integrating ecology, hydrodynamics, and engineering at multiple scales

The loss of functional and accreting coral reefs reduces coastal protection and resilience for tropical coastlines. Coral restoration has potential for recovering healthy reefs that can mitigate risks from coastal hazards and increase sustainability. However, scaling up restoration to the large extent needed for coastal protection requires integrated application of principles from coastal engineer
Authors
T. Shay Viehman, Borja Reguero, Hunter Lenihan, Johanna H. Rosman, Curt Storlazzi, Elizabeth Goergen, Miguel F. Canals Silander, Sarah H. Groves, Daniel Holstein, Andrew Bruckner, Jane Carrick, Brian Haus, Julia Royster, Melissa Duvall, Walter Torres, Jim Hench

Barrier island reconfiguration leads to rapid erosion and relocation of a rural Alaska community

Coastal erosion is one of the foremost hazards that circumpolar communities face. Climate change and warming temperatures are anticipated to accelerate coastal change, increasing risk to coastal communities. Most erosion hazard studies for Alaska communities only consider linear erosion and do not anticipate coastal morphologic changes. This study showcases the possibility and consequence of accel
Authors
Richard M. Buzard, Nicole E.M. Kinsman, Christopher V. Maio, Li H. Erikson, Benjamin M. Jones, Scott K. Anderson, Roberta Glenn, Jacquelyn R. Overbeck

Relative contributions of water-level components to extreme water levels along the US Southeast Atlantic Coast from a regional-scale water-level hindcast

A 38-year hindcast water level product is developed for the U.S. Southeast Atlantic coastline from the entrance of Chesapeake Bay to the southeast tip of Florida. The water level modelling framework utilized in this study combines a global-scale hydrodynamic model (Global Tide and Surge Model, GTSM-ERA5), a novel ensemble-based tide model, a parameterized wave setup model, and statistical correcti
Authors
Kai Alexander Parker, Li H. Erikson, Jennifer Anne Thomas, Cornelis M. Nederhoff, Patrick L. Barnard, Sanne Muis