Skip to main content
U.S. flag

An official website of the United States government

Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1320

Barrier islands and spits of northern Alaska: Decadal scale morphological change

Arctic barrier islands and spits are dynamic features influenced by a variety of oceanographic, geologic, and environmental factors. Many serve as habitat and protection for native species and shelter the coast from waves and storms that can flood and erode the adjacent mainland. This paper summarizes results of a study documenting changes to barrier morphology along the North Slope coast of Alask
Authors
Ann E. Gibbs, Li H. Erikson, Anna I Hamilton

Wave-scale observations of sediment resuspension and subsequent transport across a fringing reef flat

During a 3-month deployment on a broad, fringing reef flat in Moloka’i, Hawai’i, we observed over 28,000 wave-driven resuspension (WDR) events of coarse-grained sediment in order to identify major factors. These events were short-lived (2-11 s) and distinct from the longer-duration patterns of water-column backscatter. The wave-driven transport of WDR events was onshore, but the net cross-shore tr
Authors
Olivia Cheriton, Curt Storlazzi, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Joshua B. Logan, Andrew W. M. Pomeroy, Mark L. Buckley, Jeff E. Hansen, Ryan J. Lowe

Time-lapse seafloor surveys reveal how turbidity currents and internal tides in Monterey Canyon interact with the seabed at centimeter-scale

Here we show how ultra-high resolution seabed mapping using new technology can help to understand processes that sculpt submarine canyons. Time-lapse seafloor surveys were conducted in the axis of Monterey Canyon, ∼50 km from the canyon head (∼1,840 m water depth) over an 18-month period. These surveys comprised 5-cm resolution multibeam bathymetry, 1-cm resolution lidar bathymetry, and 2-mm resol
Authors
Monica Wolfson-Schwehr, Charles K. Paull, David W. Caress, Roberto Gwiazda, Nora Maria Nieminski, Peter J. Talling, Cristian Carvajal, Stephen M. Simmons, Giancarlo Troni

Shallow deformation on the Kirby Hills fault, Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta, California (USA), revealed from high-resolution seismic reflection data and coring in a fluvial system

The Sacramento–San Joaquin Delta (Delta) in California (USA) is an important part of the state’s freshwater system and is also a major source of agricultural and natural resources. However, the Delta is traversed by a series of faults that make up the easternmost part of the San Andreas fault system at this latitude and pose seismic hazard to this region. In this study, we use new high-resolution
Authors
Shannon Klotsko, Jillian Maloney, Janet Watt

Sediment deposition, erosion, and bathymetric change in San Francisco Bay, California, 1971–1990 and 1999–2020

Bathymetric change analyses document historical patterns of sediment deposition and erosion, providing valuable insight into the sediment dynamics of coastal systems, including pathways of sediment and sediment-bound contaminants. In 2014 and 2015, the Office for Coastal Management, in partnership with the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) Office of Coastal Management, provide
Authors
Theresa A. Fregoso, Amy C. Foxgrover, Bruce E. Jaffe

Wave-scale observations of coarse-grained sediment resuspension and subsequent transport across a fringing reef flat, Molokaʻi, Hawaiʻi, USA

During a 3-month deployment on a broad, fringing reef flat in Moloka’i, Hawai’i, we observed over 28,000 wave-driven resuspension (WDR) events of coarse-grained sediment in order to identify major factors. These events were short-lived (2-11 s) and distinct from the longer-duration patterns of water-column backscatter. The wave-driven transport of WDR events was onshore, but the net cross-shore tr
Authors
Olivia Cheriton, Curt Storlazzi, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Joshua B. Logan, Andrew W. M. Pomeroy, Mark L. Buckley, Jeff E. Hansen, Ryan J. Lowe

Barrier islands and spits of northern Alaska: Decadal scale morphological change

Arctic barrier islands and spits are dynamic features influenced by a variety of oceanographic, geologic, and environmental factors. Many serve as habitat and protection for native species and shelter the coast from waves and storms that can flood and erode the adjacent mainland. This paper summarizes results of a study documenting changes to barrier morphology along the North Slope coast of Alask
Authors
Ann E. Gibbs, Li H. Erikson, Anna I. Hamilton

South San Francisco Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project—A synthesis of Phase-1 mercury studies

The South Bay Salt Pond Restoration Project (SBSPRP) encompasses over 6,000 hectares of former salt production ponds along the south edge of the San Francisco Bay and represents the largest wetland restoration effort on the west coast of North America. A series of studies associated with Phase 1 (2010–2018) restoration activities that are focused on a historically mercury contaminated slough and s
Authors
Mark Marvin-DiPasquale, Darell Slotton, Josh T. Ackerman, Maureen A. Downing-Kunz, Bruce E. Jaffe, Amy C. Foxgrover, Fernanda Achete, Mick van der Wegen

Combinatorial optimization of earthquake spatial distributions under minimum cumulative stress constraints

We determine optimal on‐fault earthquake spatial distributions using a combinatorial method that minimizes the long‐term cumulative stress resolved on the fault. An integer‐programming framework was previously developed to determine the optimal arrangement of a millennia‐scale earthquake sample that minimizes the misfit to a target slip rate determined from geodetic data. The resulting cumulative
Authors
Eric L. Geist, Thomas E. Parsons

Observations of coastal circulation, waves, and sediment transport along West Maui, Hawaiʻi (November 2017– March 2018), and modeling effects of potential watershed restoration on decreasing sediment loads to adjacent coral reefs

Terrestrial sediment discharging from watersheds off West Maui, Hawaiʻi, has been documented as a primary stressor to local coral reefs, causing coral reef health to decline. The U.S. Geological Survey acquired and analyzed physical oceanographic and sedimentologic field data off the coast of West Maui to calibrate and validate physics-based, numerical hydrodynamic and sediment transport models of
Authors
Curt D. Storlazzi, Olivia M. Cheriton, Katherine M. Cronin, Luuk H. van der Heijden, Gundula Winter, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Joshua B. Logan, Robert T. McCall

Sediment gravity flow frequency offshore central California diminished significantly following the Last Glacial Maximum

A high-resolution multibeam survey from a portion of the San Simeon Channel (offshore Morro Bay, California) captured a zone of recurring troughs and ridges adjacent to prominent submarine meander bends. Through an integrated study using surveying data, sediment core analysis, radiocarbon dating, and stable isotope measurements, we hypothesize that turbidity current event frequency was higher duri
Authors
Stephen C. Dobbs, Charles K. Paull, Eve M. Lundsten, Roberto Gwiazda, David W. Caress, Mary McGann, Marianne M. Coholich, Maureen A.L. Walton, Nora Maria Nieminski, Timothy McHargue, Steven A. Graham

Earth science looks to outer space

Satellite data are revolutionizing coastal science. A study revealing how the El Niño/Southern Oscillation impacts coastal erosion around the Pacific Rim shows what is possible.
Authors
Patrick L. Barnard, Sean Vitousek