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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1331

Model-based interpretation of sediment concentration and vertical flux measurements in a shallow estuarine environment

A one-dimensional numerical model describing tidally varying vertical mixing and settling was used to interpret sediment concentrations and vertical fluxes observed in the shoals of South San Francisco Bay by two acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs) at elevations of 0.36 m and 0.72 m above bed. Measured sediment concentrations changed by up to 100 g m−3 over the semidiurnal tidal cycle. These dyna
Authors
Andreas Brand, Jessica R. Lacy, Steve Gladding, Rusty Holleman, Mark T. Stacey

California State Waters Map Series — Offshore of Pacifica, California

In 2007, the California Ocean Protection Council initiated the California Seafloor Mapping Program (CSMP), designed to create a comprehensive seafloor map of high-resolution bathymetry, marine benthic habitats, and geology within the 3-nautical-mile limit of California’s State Waters. The CSMP approach is to create highly detailed seafloor maps through collection, integration, interpretation, and
Authors
Brian D. Edwards, Eleyne L. Phillips, Peter Dartnell, H. Gary Greene, Carrie K. Bretz, Rikk G. Kvitek, Stephen R. Hartwell, Samuel Y. Johnson, Guy R. Cochrane, Bryan E. Dieter, Ray W. Sliter, Stephanie L. Ross, Nadine E. Golden, Janet Tilden Watt, John L. Chinn, Mercedes D. Erdey, Lisa M. Krigsman, Michael W. Manson, Charles A. Endris

Future wave and wind projections for United States and United-States-affiliated Pacific Islands

Changes in future wave climates in the tropical Pacific Ocean from global climate change are not well understood. Spatially and temporally varying waves dominate coastal morphology and ecosystem structure of the islands throughout the tropical Pacific. Waves also impact coastal infrastructure, natural and cultural resources, and coastal-related economic activities of the islands. Wave heights, per
Authors
Curt D. Storlazzi, James B. Shope, Li H. Erikson, Christine A. Hegermiller, Patrick L. Barnard

Large-scale dam removal on the Elwha River, Washington, USA: source-to-sink sediment budget and synthesis

Understanding landscape responses to sediment supply changes constitutes a fundamental part of many problems in geomorphology, but opportunities to study such processes at field scales are rare. The phased removal of two large dams on the Elwha River, Washington, exposed 21 ± 3 million m3, or ~ 30 million tonnes (t), of sediment that had been deposited in the two former reservoirs, allowing a comp

Authors
Jonathan A. Warrick, Jennifer A. Bountry, Amy E. East, Christopher S. Magirl, Timothy J. Randle, Guy R. Gelfenbaum, Andrew C. Ritchie, George R. Pess, Vivian Leung, Jeff J. Duda

Shear-wave velocity and site-amplification factors for 50 Australian sites determined by the spectral analysis of surface waves method

One-dimensional shear-wave velocity (VS ) profiles are presented at 50 strong motion sites in New South Wales and Victoria, Australia. The VS profiles are estimated with the spectral analysis of surface waves (SASW) method. The SASW method is a noninvasive method that indirectly estimates the VS at depth from variations in the Rayleigh wave phase velocity at the surface.
Authors
Robert E. Kayen, Bradley A. Carkin, Trevor Allen, Clive Collins, Andrew McPherson, Diane L. Minasian

A 2-D process-based model for suspended sediment dynamics: A first step towards ecological modeling

In estuaries suspended sediment concentration (SSC) is one of the most important contributors to turbidity, which influences habitat conditions and ecological functions of the system. Sediment dynamics differs depending on sediment supply and hydrodynamic forcing conditions that vary over space and over time. A robust sediment transport model is a first step in developing a chain of models enablin
Authors
F. M. Achete, M. van der Wegen, D. Roelvink, B. Jaffe

Kelp, cobbles, and currents: Biologic reduction of coarse grain entrainment stress

Models quantifying the onset of sediment motion do not typically account for the effect of biotic processes because they are difficult to isolate and quantify in relation to physical processes. Here we investigate an example of the interaction of kelp (Order Laminariales) and coarse sediment transport in the coastal zone, where it is possible to directly quantify and test its effect. Kelp is ubiqu
Authors
Claire C Masteller, Noah J Finnegan, Jonathan Warrick, Ian M. Miller

The Moloka‘i coral reef today, and alternatives for the future: Summary in The coral reef of south Moloka‘i, Hawai‘i—Portrait of a sediment-threatened fringing reef

From the contributions collected in this publication have emerged two important observations that have significance locally, nationally, and internationally. First, the fringing coral reef along the south coast of Moloka'i is one of the most extensive and luxuriant reefs in the eight main Hawaiian Islands. It is longer and more continuous and has denser coral cover than reefs at any of the other i
Authors
Michael E. Field, Susan A. Cochran, Joshua B. Logan, Curt D. Storlazzi

The Swinomish Indian Tribal Community prepares for climate change impacts

From changes in traditional foods to concerns of displacement from rising seas, this coastal community in the Pacific Northwest is assessing potential impacts to make decisions for their future.
Authors
Eric E. Grossman, Jamie Donatuto, Sarah Grossman, Larry W. Campbell

A Geochemical and Geophysical Assessment of Coastal Groundwater Discharge at Select Sites in Maui and O’ahu, Hawai’i

This chapter summarizes fieldwork conducted to derive new estimates of coastal groundwater discharge and associated nutrient loadings at select coastal sites in Hawai’i, USA. Locations for this work were typically identified based on pronounced, recent ecosystem degradation that may at least partially be attributable to sustained coastal groundwater discharge. Our suite of tools used to evaluate g
Authors
Peter W. Swarzenski, Curt D. Storlazzi, M.L. Dalier, C.R. Glenn, C.G. Smith

Ocean minerals

Nearly 71 percent of the Earth is covered by ocean, yet during the entire history of societies, the mineral resources essential for nation building have been acquired solely from the continents. Deep-ocean minerals were discovered over a century ago during the Challenger expedition of 1873—1876, but only relatively recently did programs develop to determine their origin, distribution, and resource
Authors
James R. Hein, Kira L. Mizell

Deep-Water Acoustic Anomalies from Methane Hydrate in the Bering Sea

A recent expedition to the central Bering Sea, one of the most remote locations in the world, has yielded observations confirming gas and gas hydrates in this deep ocean basin. Significant sound speed anomalies found using inversion of pre-stack seismic data are observed in association with variable seismic amplitude anomalies in the thick sediment column. The anomalously low sound speeds below th
Authors
Warren T. Wood, Ginger A. Barth, David W. Scholl, Nina Lebedeva-Ivanova