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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

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Southwest Washington littoral drift restoration—Beach and nearshore morphological monitoring

A morphological monitoring program has documented the placement and initial dispersal of beach nourishment material (280,000 m3) placed between the Mouth of the Columbia River (MCR) North Jetty and North Head, at the southern end of the Long Beach Peninsula in southwestern Washington State. A total of 21 topographic surveys and 8 nearshore bathymetric surveys were performed between July 11, 2010,
Authors
Andrew W. Stevens, Guy Gelfenbaum, Peter Ruggiero, George M. Kaminsky

River turbidity and sediment loads during dam removal

Dam decommissioning has become an important means for removing unsafe or obsolete dams and for restoring natural fluvial processes, including discharge regimes, sediment transport, and ecosystem connectivity [Doyle et al., 2003]. The largest dam-removal project in history began in September 2011 on the Elwha River of Washington State (Figure 1a). The project, which aims to restore the river ecosys

Authors
Jonathan A. Warrick, Jeffrey J. Duda, Christopher S. Magirl, Chris A. Curran

The effects of wildfire on the sediment yield of a coastal California watershed

The occurrence of two wildfires separated by 31 yr in the chaparral-dominated Arroyo Seco watershed (293 km

Authors
J.A. Warrick, J.A. Hatten, G.B. Pasternack, A.B. Gray, M.A. Goni, R. A. Wheatcroft

Influence of the Amlia fracture zone on the evolution of the Aleutian Terrace forearc basin, central Aleutian subduction zone

During Pliocene to Quaternary time, the central Aleutian forearc basin evolved in response to a combination of tectonic and climatic factors. Initially, along-trench transport of sediment and accretion of a frontal prism created the accommodation space to allow forearc basin deposition. Transport of sufficient sediment to overtop the bathymetrically high Amlia fracture zone and reach the central A

Authors
Holly F. Ryan, Amy E. Draut, Katie M. Keranen, David W. Scholl

Small-scale turbidity currents in a big submarine canyon

Field measurements of oceanic turbidity currents, especially diluted currents, are extremely rare. We present a dilute turbidity current recorded by instrumented moorings 14.5 km apart at 1300 and 1860 m water depth. The sediment concentration within the flow was 0.017%, accounting for 18 cm/s gravity current speed due to density excess. Tidal currents of ∼30 cm/s during the event provided a "tail

Authors
Jingping Xu, James P. Barry, Charles K. Paull

History of earthquakes and tsunamis along the eastern Aleutian-Alaska megathrust, with implications for tsunami hazards in the California Continental Borderland

During the past several years, devastating tsunamis were generated along subduction zones in Indonesia, Chile, and most recently Japan. Both the Chile and Japan tsunamis traveled across the Pacific Ocean and caused localized damage at several coastal areas in California. The question remains as to whether coastal California, in particular the California Continental Borderland, is vulnerable to mor

Authors
Holly F. Ryan, Roland E. von Huene, Ray E. Wells, David W. Scholl, Stephen Kirby, Amy E. Draut

Seafloor geology and benthic habitats, San Pedro Shelf, southern California

Seafloor samples, videography, still photography, and real-time descriptions of geologic and biologic constituents at or near the seafloor of the San Pedro Shelf, southern California, advance the study of natural and man-made processes on this coastal area off the metropolitan Los Angeles area. Multibeam echo-sounder data collected by the U.S. Geological Survey in 1998 and 1999 guided sampling and

Authors
Florence L. Wong, Peter Dartnell, Brian D. Edwards, Eleyne L. Phillips

Currents, drag, and sediment transport induced by a tsunami

We report observations of water surface elevation, currents, and suspended sediment concentration (SSC) from a 10-m deep site on the inner shelf in northern Monterey Bay during the arrival of the 2010 Chile tsunami. Velocity profiles were measured from 3.5 m above the bed (mab) to the surface at 2 min intervals, and from 0.1 to 0.7 mab at 1 Hz. SSC was determined from the acoustic backscatter of t
Authors
Jessica R. Lacy, David M. Rubin, Daniel Buscombe

Nearshore morphology, benthic structure, hydrodynamics, and coastal groundwater discharge near Kahekili Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii

This report presents a brief summary of recent fieldwork conducted off Kahekili Beach Park, Maui, Hawaii, the site of the newly established U.S. Coral Reef Task Force priority study area at Kaanapali and the Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources, Division of Aquatic Resources, Kahekili Herbivore Fisheries Management Area (HFMA). The goals of this fieldwork are to provide new baseline inf
Authors
Peter W. Swarzenski, Curt D. Storlazzi, M. Katherine Presto, Ann E. Gibbs, Christopher G. Smith, Natasha T. Dimova, Meghan L. Dailer, Joshua B. Logan

Inland fields of dispersed cobbles and boulders as evidence for a tsunami on Anegada, British Virgin Islands

Marine overwash from the north a few centuries ago transported hundreds of angular cobbles and boulders tens to hundreds of meters southward from limestone outcrops in the interior of Anegada, 140 km east–northeast of Puerto Rico. We examined two of several cobble and boulder fields as part of an effort to interpret whether the overwash resulted from a tsunami or a storm in a location where both e
Authors
Bruce E. Jaffe, Steve Watt, Mark Buckley

Bathymetry and acoustic backscatter-outer mainland shelf, eastern Santa Barbara Channel, California

In 2010 and 2011, scientists from the U.S. Geological Survey (USGS), Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center (PCMSC), acquired bathymetry and acoustic-backscatter data from the outer shelf region of the eastern Santa Barbara Channel, California. These surveys were conducted in cooperation with the Bureau of Ocean Energy Management (BOEM). BOEM is interested in maps of hard-bottom substrates, par
Authors
Peter Dartnell, David P. Finlayson, Andrew C. Ritchie, Guy R. Cochrane, Mercedes D. Erdey

Modeling of depth to base of Last Glacial Maximum and seafloor sediment thickness for the California State Waters Map Series, eastern Santa Barbara Channel, California

Models of the depth to the base of Last Glacial Maximum and sediment thickness over the base of Last Glacial Maximum for the eastern Santa Barbara Channel are a key part of the maps of shallow subsurface geology and structure for offshore Refugio to Hueneme Canyon, California, in the California State Waters Map Series. A satisfactory interpolation of the two datasets that accounted for regional ge
Authors
Florence L. Wong, Eleyne L. Phillips, Samuel Y. Johnson, Ray W. Sliter