Littoral transport in the surf zone elucidated by an Eulerian sediment tracer

An Eulerian, or time integration, sand tracer experiment was designed and carried out in the surf zone near Pt. Mugu, California on April 19, 1972. Data indicate that conditions of stationarity and finite boundaries required for proper application of Eulerian tracer theory exist for short time periods in the surf zone. Grain counts suggest time required for tracer sand to attain equilibrium concentration is on the order of 30-60 minutes. Grain counts also indicate transport (discharge) was strongly dependent upon grain size, with the maximum rate occurring in the size 2.5-2.75phi (0.18-0.15 mm) decreasing to both finer and coarser sizes. The measured instantaneous transport was at the annual rate of 2.4 x 10 ⁶ m ³ /yr.