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Publications

Scientific reports, journal articles, and information products produced by USGS Pacific Coastal and Marine Science Center scientists.

Filter Total Items: 1337

Measuring settling velocity in a strongly tidal estuary

Predicting sediment transport in estuarine systems requires understanding sediment settling velocity, its range of fluctuations, and the shortcomings of the tools to measure it. Previous studies have used Laser In-Situ Scattering and Transmissometry (LISST) instruments to measure particle size and Acoustic Doppler Velocimeters (ADV) to return estimates of settling velocity. We deployed both instru

Authors
Rachel Allen, Jessica R. Lacy, Evan A Variano

Controls on sediment transport over coral reefs off southwest Puerto Rico: Seasonal patterns and Hurricane Maria

Guánica Bay in southwest Puerto Rico is highly turbid and has some of the highest PCB concentrations in the USA. To investigate how and to what extent the bay waters influence coral reef ecosystem health along the coastline, 6 months of hydrodynamic data were collected at 8 sites on the insular shelf. Bed shear stresses were primarily driven by waves and were weakest at the site closest to La Parg

Authors
Olivia Cheriton, Curt D. Storlazzi, Kurt J. Rosenberger, Clark Sherman

Toward a national coastal hazard forecast of total water levels

Storm surge and large waves combine to erode beaches, cause marsh and coral decay, and inundate low-elevation areas, resulting in hazards to coastal communities and loss of natural resources. The USGS, in collaboration with NOAA, is developing a real-time system to provide ∼ 6-day forecasts of total water levels (TWLs) combining tides, storm surge, and wave runup. TWL is compared with dune elevati
Authors
Alfredo Aretxabaleta, Kara S. Doran, Joseph W. Long, Li H. Erikson

Evidence for frequent, large tsunamis spanning locked and creeping parts of the Aleutian megathrust

At the eastern end of the 1957 Andreanof Islands magnitude-8.6 earthquake rupture, Driftwood Bay (Umnak Island) and Stardust Bay (Sedanka Island) lie along presently locked and creeping parts of the Aleutian megathrust, respectively, based on satellite geodesy onshore. Both bays, located 200-km apart, face the Aleutian trench and harbor coastal evidence for tsunami inundation in 1957. Here we desc
Authors
Robert C. Witter, Richard W. Briggs, Simon E. Engelhart, Guy R. Gelfenbaum, Richard D Koehler, Alan R. Nelson, SeanPaul La Selle, Reide Corbett, Kristi L. Wallace

Assessing morphologic controls on atoll island alongshore sediment transport gradients due to future sea-level rise

Atoll islands’ alongshore sediment transport gradients depend on how island and reef morphology affect incident wave energy. It is unclear, though, how potential atoll morphologic configurations influence shoreline erosion and/or accretion patterns, and how these relationships will respond to future sea-level rise (SLR). Schematic atoll models with varying morphologies were used to evaluate the re
Authors
James B. Shope, Curt D. Storlazzi

Seismological, geological, and geotechnical engineering aspects of the 2018 MW 6.6 Hokkaido Eastern Iburi earthquake

The 2018 Hokkaido Eastern Iburi MW6.6 earthquake struck the southern coast of the north island of Japan in the early morning (3:08 AM JST) on September 6, 2018. The event had a hypocentral depth of 35 km, centered beneath the port city of Tomakomai. Extremely strong shaking with peak ground acceleration in excess of 0.5 g was felt in the communities directly north of Tomakomai, in the districts of
Authors
Robert Kayen, Brad Wham, Alex R. R. Grant, Mikami Atsushi, Donald Anderson, Paolo Zimmaro, Pengfei Wang, Yi Tyan Tsai, Jeff Bachhuber, Chris L M Madugo, Joseph Sun, Christopher S. Hitchcock, Matthew Motto

Spatial and temporal variability in ripple formation and migration across a coral reef flat and lagoon

The transport of carbonate sediment across reefs to the shoreline is of great interest to the research community and coastal managers alike. This sediment is generated by the breakdown of reef skeletal structure and a critical source for beach nourishment that provides a buffer to coastal flooding as sea levels rise. Understanding the physical processes that are responsible for this flux of sedime
Authors
Kurt J. Rosenberger, Curt D. Storlazzi, Andrew Pomeroy, Olivia Cheriton, Ryan J. Lowe, Jeff Hansen

Rigorously valuing the role of U.S. coral reefs in coastal hazard risk reduction

The degradation of coastal habitats, particularly coral reefs, raises risks by increasing the exposure of coastal communities to flooding hazards. The protective services of these natural defenses are not assessed in the same rigorous economic terms as artificial defenses, such as seawalls, and therefore often are not considered in decision making. Here we combine engineering, ecologic, geospatial
Authors
Curt D. Storlazzi, Borja G. Reguero, Aaron Cole, Erik Lowe, James B. Shope, Ann E. Gibbs, Barry A. Nickel, Robert T. McCall, Ap R. van Dongeren, Michael W. Beck

Sedimentary evidence of prehistoric distant-source tsunamis in the Hawaiian Islands

Over the past 200 years of written records, the Hawaiian Islands have experienced tens of tsunamis generated by earthquakes in the subduction zones of the Pacific "Ring of Fire" (e.g., Alaska-Aleutian, Kuril-Kamchatka, Chile, and Japan). Mapping and dating anomalous beds of sand and silt deposited by tsunamis in low-lying areas along Pacific coasts, even those distant from subduction zones, is cr
Authors
SeanPaul La Selle, Bruce M. Richmond, Bruce E. Jaffe, Alan Nelson, Frances Griswold, Maria E.M. Arcos, Catherine Chague, James M. Bishop, Piero Bellanova, Haunani H. Kane, Brent D. Lunghino, Guy R. Gelfenbaum

An economic evaluation of adaptation pathways in coastal mega cities: An illustration for Los Angeles

Sea level rise and uncertainty in its projections pose a major challenge to flood risk management and adaptation investments in coastal mega cities. This study presents a comparative economic evaluation method for flood adaptation measures, which couples a cost–benefit analysis with the concept of adaptation pathways. Our approach accounts for uncertainty in sea level rise projections by allowing

Authors
Lars T. de Ruig, Patrick L. Barnard, W. J. Wouter Botzen, Phyllis Grifman, Juliette Finzi Hart, Hans de Moel, Nick Sadrpour, Jeroen C.J.H. Aerts

Shallow structure and geomorphology along the offshore northern San Andreas Fault, Tomales Point to Fort Ross, California

We mapped a poorly documented 35-km-long section of the northern San Andreas fault zone (NSAF) between Tomales Point and Fort Ross, California. Mapping is largely based on high-resolution seismic-reflection profiles (38 fault crossings), multibeam bathymetry, and onshore geology. NSAF strike in this section is nearly parallel to plate motion, characterized by a slight (~2°) northerly (transtension

Authors
Samuel Johnson, Beeson Jeffrey W.

Iron and sulfide nanoparticle formation and transport in nascent hydrothermal vent plumes

Deep-sea hydrothermal vents are a significant source of dissolved metals to the global oceans, producing midwater plumes enriched in metals that are transported thousands of kilometers from the vent source. Extensive particle precipitation upon emission of hydrothermal fluids, due to temperature and pH changes during mixing with ambient seawater, controls metal speciation and the magnitude of meta
Authors
Alyssa J. Findlay, Emily Estes, Amy Gartman, Alexey Kamyshny, Mustafa Yucel, George W. Luther
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